Jableh: Rich History and Hidden Treasures
Lattakia, the largest city on the coast and the fourth largest in Syria, offers a diverse range of accommodation options, making it an ideal base for exploring the coastal region. While the majority of the city showcases a modern and developed landscape, there are intriguing remnants from the Roman era and charming older mosques that add to its historical allure. Additionally, visitors can explore a small museum housed in an Ottoman-era khan, adding cultural depth to their experience.
Located approximately twenty-five kilometers south of Lattakia, Jableh is a noteworthy coastal town that often goes unnoticed by tourists. Within its center lies an impressive Roman amphitheatre, accompanied by one of the oldest mosques in the coastal region. Just north of the microbus station, on the town’s outskirts, lies the archaeological site of Tel Tweini, which dates back to the Bronze Age. Jableh serves as an important transit hub for the neighbouring mountain villages, making it a convenient stopover. Visitors can combine their visit to Jableh with nearby sites such as Qalaat al-Maniqeh, Qalaat Bani Qahtan, and/or al-Qardaha, enhancing their exploration of the region.
Jableh boasts a rich historical legacy as a port city since Phoenician times. It is mentioned in Assyrian records as part of the Assyrian Empire and even hosted a Greek colony in the 8th century BC. During the Persian and Seleucid periods, it was part of the confederation of Phoenician states controlled by Arwad, although it was often overshadowed by Lattakia. Following Pompey’s conquest in 64 BC, Jableh came under Roman control and gained significance during the Christian period of the Byzantine Empire, serving as the seat of a bishop. In 638, the city was captured by the Arabs.
After the Crusaders captured Antioch in 1098, led by Raymond, Count of Toulouse, they exerted pressure on the local Muslim ruler of Jableh to pay tribute. Despite his efforts to seek protection from Muslim leaders in Tripoli and Damascus, Jableh fell to the Crusaders in 1109 under Tancred, who incorporated it into the Principality of Antioch and renamed it Zibel. The Roman amphitheatre was subsequently transformed into a Crusader castle.
By the mid-12th century, Jableh had its own duke and bishop. It was briefly recaptured by the Arabs under Salah al-Din during his coastal campaign in 1188 but soon returned to Crusader control after Salah al-Din’s successors abandoned it. The Hospitallers assumed control, although their authority was contested by the Templars. In 1285, following a successful siege of Qalaat al-Marqab, the Mamluk Sultan Qalaun seized Jableh, transforming it into a bustling center for trade and religious pilgrimage for the surrounding mountain villages.
While Jableh has witnessed numerous periods of Syrian history, today its tangible remnants are centred around the small Roman amphitheatre located in the heart of the town. This freestanding structure, measuring approximately 90 meters in diameter and capable of accommodating around 7,000 spectators, stands as one of the country’s most impressive amphitheatres. Although it may not rival the grandeur of the amphitheatre in Bosra, it surpasses those in Shahba and Tadmor/Palmyra in size and boasts better preservation compared to those in Afamia/Apamea and al-Nabi Houri/Cyrrhus. Currently undergoing restoration, the surroundings of the amphitheatre are also subject to ongoing excavation. Visitors are required to pay a modest entrance fee to access the site.
In close proximity to the amphitheatre, a beautiful mosque houses the tomb of a revered local Muslim saint named Sidi Ibrahim Ben Adham, who passed away in 778. This mosque stands on the site of a church constructed during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Heraclius (610-641). Heraclius, whose efforts to reclaim Syria from the Persians were thwarted by the unexpected rise of the Arabs, left behind this historical legacy. Although the mosque is often closed outside of prayer times, with some inquiry, visitors can locate the caretaker and catch a glimpse inside. Plans for the restoration of the mosque are currently underway, promising to breathe new life into this significant religious site.