Qalaat Sheizar: A Historic Arab Castle Guarding the Orontes.
Qalaat Sheizar, a magnificent Arab castle situated north of Hama and overlooking a crucial river crossing on the Orontes River, has a fascinating history. According to local legends recorded by Diodorus Siculus in the first century BC, the castle’s origins can be traced back to a regiment of Thessalonian cavalry from Alexander the Great’s forces.
During the early Arab period, the castle was initially a Fatimid stronghold but was captured by the Byzantines in 999 as part of their efforts to regain control in Syria. However, the Byzantine hold weakened over time, and in 1081, the castle was seized by a local clan called the Banu Munqidh. Qalaat Sheizar became an important stronghold in the Arab resistance against the Crusaders, particularly when the Crusaders established themselves in Qalaat al-Madiq to the north. The clansmen used Qalaat Sheizar as a base to harass the Crusaders, making it a significant center of Arab resistance.
The castle’s strategic importance led to the Crusaders establishing positions in the mountains across the plain to monitor and contain Qalaat Sheizar. Tancred, a Crusader leader, made unsuccessful attempts to capture the castle in 1108 and 1110. Eventually, a treaty was reached in 1110 between Tancred and the Emir of Sheizar, allowing both parties to coexist within their respective spheres of influence.
The Byzantines made further unsuccessful attempts to capture the castle in 1134 and 1138. In 1157, a severe earthquake struck the region, causing significant damage to Qalaat Sheizar and other parts of Syria. Taking advantage of the weakened state of the clan owners, the Crusaders occupied the lower citadel of the castle. However, Nur al-Din, a prominent figure in northern Syria, expelled the Crusaders, repaired the damage, and appointed his own governor.
Another earthquake in 1170 caused additional damage to the castle. After Salah al-Din incorporated northern Syria into his territories after 1174, Qalaat Sheizar came under his control. The Ayyubids, under whom a new keep was constructed in 1233, further developed the castle. The castle suffered damage during the first Mongol invasion of Syria in 1260 but was garrisoned by Baibars, who played a crucial role in revitalizing Syria after the Mongol invasion. Baibars and his successor, Qalaun, likely contributed to the castle’s present-day appearance, including the northern defenses and the reconstructed keep.
Over time, Qalaat Sheizar ceased to be used as a military post but continued to provide shelter to village inhabitants. However, in recent decades, the villagers were relocated, and the castle has gradually deteriorated due to erosion caused by their building activities.
Qalaat Sheizar is situated on an elongated crag that spans 300 meters, providing a natural setting for a fortress. As visitors approach the modern village, they can observe a remarkable ditch carved out of the living rock at the southern end of the crag. This ditch effectively isolates the castle’s defenses from the connecting hill and gives the main castle keep a higher elevation. Similar defensive arrangements can be found at other nearby castles, such as Qalaat Salah al-Din and Qalaat al-Shaghur/Bakas.
A visit to Qalaat Sheizar typically takes around an hour and is conveniently located between Hama and Apamea/Afamia. The castle is accessed from the northern entrance near the old Turkish bridge and norias. Although the entry bridge is not medieval, it leads to a salient of the castle constructed in 1290, characterized by its angular extension from the northern walls. The salient is built with large bossaged blocks anchored by classical columns, and while the upper tower is partially missing, one story and several windows have survived.
Upon passing through a vaulted passage, visitors reach a relatively open space filled with scattered remnants from different periods. These remnants remain after the villagers were evacuated from the area. Although not easily identifiable, the area offers stunning views of the surrounding plain and the Orontes Gorge, located 50 meters below. The journey continues towards the prominent remains of the keep, situated at the south end of the ridge. The keep, originally constructed in 1233 by the Ayyubids, features a cellar area with vaulted rooms, two large floors, and a roof platform. While the keep exhibits similarities to Crusader architecture and techniques, the proportions, especially in the pillars supporting the vaulting, may not always be regular.
