Tartous: A Journey Through Syria’s Castle-Studded Coast.
Tartous, situated on Syria’s Mediterranean coast, is the second largest city in the region and serves as a provincial capital, boasting a significant seaport. While Tartous is most renowned for its role during the Crusades, when it was referred to as Tortosa, its historical roots can be traced back to the Phoenician era. Today, it stands as a well-developed city with several parks and an overall tranquil and unhurried atmosphere. The remnants of its rich history include the old town, nestled within the former Crusader castle, as well as a cathedral from the same period that now serves as the city museum.
Tartous and its surrounding area are replete with historical castles and forts, offering visitors a glimpse into the past. One notable example is Qalaat al-Marqab, an imposing Crusader castle that dominates a hilltop overlooking the main coastal highway between Tartous and Lattakia. Situated just outside the town of Banias, it is considered one of the most impressive castles in Syria and is a must-see for those exploring the coastal region.
Among the lesser-known castles and forts in the Tartous region is Qalaat al-Kahf. This castle is perched on a rocky mountain ridge, nestled between two gorges, with steep cliffs providing natural defences. Surrounded by towering mountain peaks and nearly concealed from view, Qalaat al-Kahf rivals Qalaat Salah al-Din in terms of its picturesque setting. Although the castle’s state of preservation is not ideal, which is unsurprising given the quality of masonry typically used by the Ismaelis, it remains an impressive site.
While many of the fortifications have been destroyed or crumbled away, the main gateway, hammam, and a couple of towers still stand. The stone walls leading up from the main entrance are adorned with beautiful Arabic calligraphy. Despite being in a better state of preservation, Masyaf, another Ismaeli stronghold, Qalaat al-Kahf enjoys an equally illustrious history during its relatively short period of prominence.
Burj al-Sebi, a solitary Crusader tower, now overlooks the main coastal highway. It is situated on the southern outskirts of Banias and southwest of Qalaat al-Marqab. Historically, Burj al-Sebi served to protect the access to the port and coastal route leading to Qalaat al-Marqab. Covering an area of approximately 15 square meters, the tower consists of two floors for accommodation and a basement. It was likely constructed around the same time as Qalaat al-Marqab itself, towards the end of the 12th century or the beginning of the 13th century. Made from the same black basalt stone as the castle, the tower has managed to preserve its structure quite well and is worth a visit while exploring the area.
Qalaat Yahmur, a compact fortress, can be found about 12 kilometers southeast of Tartous in the center of the village of Yahmur. It is remarkably well-preserved and has undergone recent restoration work. Until recently, a family resided on the ground floor of the central keep, but it is now abandoned. While Qalaat Yahmur may not be as grand as other castles in the region, it is easily accessible, and a visit from Tartous would typically take no more than a couple of hours.
Qalaat al-Khawabi is an impressive Ismaili castle situated above a village of the same name. Over the centuries, it has undergone significant modifications by local villagers, making it somewhat challenging to discern the castle’s original layout. Nevertheless, a visit to Qalaat al-Khawabi is still worthwhile. Interestingly, the castle is located in one of the few Sunni Muslim villages in a predominantly Christian and Alawite region.
Qalaat al-Arimeh, a sizable Crusader castle, is located near the village of al-Safsafeh to the southeast of Tartous. The remains of the castle are in a relatively poor state of preservation and largely engulfed by vegetation. However, several towers still stand, and the site is a popular picnic spot for locals. Despite its condition, Qalaat al-Arimeh is worth visiting, if only to admire the scale of its defences and to explore one of the less frequented sites in the area.
Qalaat al-Ileiqeh, once a significant Ismaeli castle, now has little remaining to justify the effort required to reach it. A few walls, arches, and remnants of a couple of towers are all that survive. However, the location offers picturesque scenery, and the views along the road leading to the castle are truly spectacular.
Tartous and its surrounding region are home to a wealth of historical castles and forts that showcase the area’s rich heritage. From the imposing Qalaat al-Marqab and the romantically situated Qalaat al-Kahf to the lesser-known Qalaatal-Khawabi and Qalaat al-Ileiqeh, each site offers a unique glimpse into the past. Despite varying degrees of preservation, these castles and forts contribute to the historical tapestry of Tartous, making it an intriguing destination for history enthusiasts and travelers seeking to explore Syria’s coastal region.
